Femme Fatale at Viscount Ranelagh's house in olde Fullanham |
“Do you know anything
about that building?” I asked the lady conveniently sitting, looking towards the
Empress State Building. We are in the Prince of Wales pub, at 14 Lillie Road,
Fulham.
“Why, Yes I do. Sit down! Don’t tell me you want to buy it?
“Good Lord, No”! I
said. “I couldn’t afford one of the doors, never mind that ginormous thing”. It has 31 floors and rises 385 feet.
“Just curious, are
you?”
“I guess you can say
that”. I answered.
“Well it’s been there
since the 1960’s. GCHQ once occupied it,
you know. At the time it was the tallest
building in Britain.”
“Interesting”! I said.
I had earlier made my
journey from the Kings Road, Chelsea, towards the New Kings Road. Then I had crossed unto Fulham Road, via
Hortensia Road, directly in front of Brompton Cemetery.
Up Fulham road, I
passed Chelsea football stadium and Fulham Broadway Station, before turning
right for North End Road; and then right again, on Lillie Road.
Had I turned left, instead, I could have gone to Fulham Palace, the historic home of the Bishops of London. There I could have strolled the palace gardens; visit the museum free of charge, then sit down to a cup of coffee and sandwich, from its now famous Drawing Room Café.
So, contrary to popular belief,
although both Chelsea and Fulham have their pitches here, Fulham is not just about football. In
fact, it is no less appealing than its property- rich neighbours: Chelsea and Kensington. It is only six short stops from Victoria, on
the District line; and two from Earls Court.
During the 18th
century, rich London gents frequented Fulham, for gambling and
prostitution.
‘The L Shaped Room’, a
novel by Lynne Reid Banks, depicts the life of an unmarried pregnant woman,
living in 1950’s Fulham. Later turned
into a film, the bug-ridden Fulham boarding house and its prostitutes living in
the basement, moved to Notting Hill.
Today, Fulham is an
abundantly rich looking and interesting neighbourhood. Its heart beats
undoubtedly, from the Fulham Broadway shopping centre; where in 2003, the
underground station closed its doors, and moved some fifty metres down the
Fulham Road, nestling itself inside the bosom of the new Broadway shopping
centre.
Out Of Fulham Broadway -- Into Fulham's rich history |
Therein, is also a wide
variety of shops and restaurants; a cinema, gymnasium and basement car park.
On North End Road, is
one of the oldest street markets in London, existing since the 1880’s. Walking
along it, you can hear the friendly enticement of traders, wooing you to buy
their wares. They speak in a dialect all of their own. Perhaps it’s as Barrow
boys once did. The Barrow Boy pub at 308-310 North End Road, reminds one of
that era.
Lillie Langtry -- The Jersey Lily. |
Beyond the Lillie
Langtry, is the 150 year old London Oratory School.
To the right, further
up Lillie Road, is the Lily hotel. Then, it is the 504 rooms Ibis Hotel. It has its own London Taxi Rank, 24 hour car
park, and conference suite attached.
Joined to it, and stretching
far away to its right, is Brompton cemetery. Established in 1836, it was completed in 1840.
Nowadays, trees grow wide and high above
it.
Entering its gates via Lillie
Road, you cut through this 165,000 square feet burial ground, sheltering some famous
--and not so famous occupants. You’ll
exit on Fulham Road.
It
seems fair to conclude then, that Fulham cannot match Chelsea and Kensington in
the property stakes. However, it engages
you with history, sports, famous hotels and pubs; as well as good ole tittle
tattle. Now what more can you ask of Fulham?
Fulham in an emergency:
Fulham Police
Station, Heckford Place, Off Fulham Rd: Emergency - always dial 999 textphone 18000.
Non-emergency - dial 101 textphone 18001 101.
Chelsea
& Westminster Hospital, 369 Fulham Road: 020
8746 8000 http://www.chelwest.nhs.uk/your-visit/.
Royal
Marsden Cancer Hospital, 197 Fulham Road: 020
7352 8171
St.
John’s Church, On North End Road, opened since
1828: 020 7385 7634 http://www.stjohnsfulham.org/.